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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.